As seen in pics below screws are all the way in and I did paper test all should be good but I'm having this problem second pic is from first print when I calibrated it's doing the infill at the wrong spot why is that? And on first pic after a couple of test print it's behaving like its not calibrated I eye checked it and therers not drag and screws are all the way in and I don't want to screw in more because I'm afraid of breaking it this is my first printer also I'm using simplify3d
Last post by Jamespd -
I know that a lot of people are looking at this and have started doing it. Anyone else know what the best safety upgrades and better stabilisation upgrades that would be recommended. Thanks in advance and here is the update. Feel free to take a look and let me know. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ai57EjaMfFY
Using this to red-strap a decent printer. Why is it doing that? I am looking at getting parts printed on this to repstrap a decent 20-30cm cubed 3d Printer. Still have issues. Have a look and suggestions would be great. Still just starting out and learning https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeteRsooG0E
Try "Pronterface" on a Laptop, connected by USB. It is generally easier to setup and get going with.
Repetier host is also a good option, but a little more to it.
The delta arm length might indeed be too long. I just spent the whole weekend calibrating my 101hero after a few upgrades (NEMA14 steppers, bowden extruder, frame stabilizations) and finally made it print pretty well.
I'm using Marlin 1.1.5 on the original 101hero controller board, the configuration is available on github:
I ended up setting DELTA_RADIUS to 78 and the print head was moving in a plane parallel to the print bed. However, printed parts came out a little too wide, so instead of incrementing the radius, the arm length has to be shortened. Setting the rod length to 142 will probably fix my issue. I'm not sure if that was supported in the Marlin build on the stock firmware, but you could try adding
to the gcode.start section of your slicer. The "delta radius" can also be configured using M665 Rxx. Also, the tower height can be set using M665 Hyy, so if you get a vertical offset to the plate by changing the rod length/delta radius, you can also move the whole setup up or down a little without having to screw with the end stop screws.
All parameters can also be set at once with one command, e.g.
M665 L142 H104.8 R78
As a side note, a good reference to measure distance between the nozzle and the print bed is a single row lego brick on the side. Lego bricks are produced very precisely, a single row brick is exactly 7.85mm wide. So if you do something like
G0 F800 X0 Y50 Z7.95
And make the brick fit exactly between pad and nozzle, you'd end up with a 0.1mm gap between nozzle and pad.
I recently received the 101 hero and have been tasked with upgrading it to get it into a working printer. I've had to do a lot of structural work just to get it to print. I started a video series on the process. I hope it helps. Have a look if you can thanks. https://youtu.be/-ZIeAb7flDE
Last post by Eddiie -
I found parts on Aliexpress.com
Ordered new controller.
I'm sure it would be easier to send a giant 3D printer up there to build stuff than actually build it here and send it.
I hacked together a RAMPS mount for the bottom.
It is intended to be used with the NEMA14 (or NEMA17?) stepper motor mods. Once the ribbon cables are added to the LCD board on the RAMPS, it makes it too tall. To fix this, I added rubber feet to the stepper motor mounts.
Another part I modified from Trebobert that will allow one to use another (cool) RAMPS enclosure and LCD screen -
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484019 + https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1310530
I did the Marlin firmware config from scratch (1.1.4) and having issues with the carriage tracking straight so going to try the config from WST.
The config from WST does not compile with the current version of Marlin. What version is it for?
i had exactly the same problem its a few things you can do, open in repetier, use makers muse video on youtube to see how check the temperature under the manual control settings and mess around with those but take note at what it was originally on, don't forget to set up the settings, there is a post on here with the gcode to calibrate the towers, a lot easier than manual and also check your temp, im running at 210 at the moment and i am on a different power supply, hope this help if you need anything don't worry on asking, ps im only 13 so im not exactly an expert just personal experience, but i know have amazing prints coming from my printer