Last post by BobC -
I think the key is developing a consistent system for problem detection, correction and prevention.
Whenever I change the filament or modify the print settings, or simply haven't used the printer for a while, I always print a Temperature Calibration Tower (done today because all my prints went bad - it was due to lower room temperature):
Whenever I change anything that affects the printer mechanically, such as the printer configuration or a motor replacement (today!), I always print a Speed Calibration Tower:
I recommend installing OpenSCAD and modifying the .scad files directly, then generating the STL. The Thingiverse Customizer is badly broken and takes way too long when it does work. But do take a quick peek at each tower in the Customizer to learn about the model parameters.
Each model comes with a Python script to modify the Speed or Temperature with Height. These scripts were easiest for me to install in Cura 15, though I use Cura 3 for everything else.
To keep things as fast as possible, both towers are printed in vase-mode, with a single wall, 2-layer base, and no top or fill. Be sure to print the Temperature Tower at a slow speed, 6-8 mm/sec, so the hot-end has time to reach the new temperature before too many layers are printed. (I keep meaning to try using the "Pause at Z" script for this, but I haven't yet looked into it.)
Start the Speed Tower at something like 8 mm/sec, and increase by steps of 1 mm/sec. A step height of 8 mm gives enough steps to cover the entire useful range.
Before starting the print, be sure to always set the speed and temperature as appropriate for the first step of each tower.
There are other things I should mention about the towers, but they aren't coming to mind at the moment. Please let me know if you have problems with them.
The 101Hero has too many sources of vibration and wobble. But they can be managed!
A big part of the problem is the crappy stock motors. The gearing can start sloppy with lots of grinding, and only gets worse from there. High-quality replacement motors are recommended! After the motor replacement I did today, my Speed Calibration Tower shows my useful draft printing speed has gone up to 17 mm/sec! (Clean/fine prints still need 8-10 mm/sec.)
Another factor is that the entire printer frame is unstable. It can get canted just by removing a print, and can wobble during a print. I added acrylic sheets between each column to serve both as stiffening and as an enclosure. But even this doesn't fix things well enough. When I start a print, I always use at least a skirt (or brim or raft) so I can nudge/twist the printer legs until the lines look right. If the print starts before it looks right, I abort, clean the bed, then restart.
The ball joints also have lots of slop and the arms are too flexible, both of which can cause print distortion. My solution is to add snug (not loose or tight) rubber bands at each end of the arms (NOT in the middle!). Made a HUGE improvement for me!
Then there's the spool: The spool holder must fill the entire center of the spool and have very smooth rotation, else the tugs of rotation will cause the print carriage to be pulled and jerked around. The best (and cheapest!) solution is to use a paint roller (described in another of my posts somewhere on this forum).
Finally, the firmware needs an update, especially the internal configuration constants, and particularly the arm lengths. I've been meaning to look at this, but it will take a ton of time to get done, so it hasn't been a priority.
FWIW, I find glue stick works best for bed adhesion. Tape is too fussy, hair spray is too messy.
Last post by Chaloux -
Thanks for your insights. Helped me a lot to make the final decision.
As seen in pics below screws are all the way in and I did paper test all should be good but I'm having this problem second pic is from first print when I calibrated it's doing the infill at the wrong spot why is that? And on first pic after a couple of test print it's behaving like its not calibrated I eye checked it and therers not drag and screws are all the way in and I don't want to screw in more because I'm afraid of breaking it this is my first printer also I'm using simplify3d
Last post by Jamespd -
I know that a lot of people are looking at this and have started doing it. Anyone else know what the best safety upgrades and better stabilisation upgrades that would be recommended. Thanks in advance and here is the update. Feel free to take a look and let me know. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ai57EjaMfFY
Using this to red-strap a decent printer. Why is it doing that? I am looking at getting parts printed on this to repstrap a decent 20-30cm cubed 3d Printer. Still have issues. Have a look and suggestions would be great. Still just starting out and learning https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeteRsooG0E
Try "Pronterface" on a Laptop, connected by USB. It is generally easier to setup and get going with.
Repetier host is also a good option, but a little more to it.
The delta arm length might indeed be too long. I just spent the whole weekend calibrating my 101hero after a few upgrades (NEMA14 steppers, bowden extruder, frame stabilizations) and finally made it print pretty well.
I'm using Marlin 1.1.5 on the original 101hero controller board, the configuration is available on github:
I ended up setting DELTA_RADIUS to 78 and the print head was moving in a plane parallel to the print bed. However, printed parts came out a little too wide, so instead of incrementing the radius, the arm length has to be shortened. Setting the rod length to 142 will probably fix my issue. I'm not sure if that was supported in the Marlin build on the stock firmware, but you could try adding
to the gcode.start section of your slicer. The "delta radius" can also be configured using M665 Rxx. Also, the tower height can be set using M665 Hyy, so if you get a vertical offset to the plate by changing the rod length/delta radius, you can also move the whole setup up or down a little without having to screw with the end stop screws.
All parameters can also be set at once with one command, e.g.
M665 L142 H104.8 R78
As a side note, a good reference to measure distance between the nozzle and the print bed is a single row lego brick on the side. Lego bricks are produced very precisely, a single row brick is exactly 7.85mm wide. So if you do something like
G0 F800 X0 Y50 Z7.95
And make the brick fit exactly between pad and nozzle, you'd end up with a 0.1mm gap between nozzle and pad.
I recently received the 101 hero and have been tasked with upgrading it to get it into a working printer. I've had to do a lot of structural work just to get it to print. I started a video series on the process. I hope it helps. Have a look if you can thanks. https://youtu.be/-ZIeAb7flDE
Last post by Eddiie -
I found parts on Aliexpress.com
Ordered new controller.