Skip to main content
October 18, 2018 ...


  • Hope you enjoy the new look of the forum.

Recent Posts

Trouble shooting / Re: Hero 101 Printing and then ... not printing
Last post by Admin -
@Boub , are you sure the printer is powered on, if you have the usb plugged into a computer the power light will come on. It will be running off of 5v though and may have enough power to move the motors
Trouble shooting / Re: Hero 101 Printing and then ... not printing
Last post by Boub -
OK there might be an issue with the SD ( I formatted it again and properly removed the SD)

I managed to run the star (test file) again but the head is moving very slowly and the star is not complete (after 3 hours). First time I ran it, it took 10minutes to complete.

>Do you think monitoring the printer through Repetitier server while printing affects the printing ?

Maybe I should oil the pylons
Trouble shooting / Hero 101 Printing and then ... not printing
Last post by Boub -
Hi All,

I received this hero 101 quite unexpectedly. My step brother had entyered into some buying fever around 3D printers and already has 2 when eventually he received the 101hero, so he gave it to me. Nice gift.. or not.
I assembled the pinter without ruining it, and printed the star, and it worked OK, then I got impatient and wanted to immediatly print something else, like a small din,o for my son.
Of course I did not calibrate nor level... After 10mn I was starting to get a very nice melted-plastic-spaghetti-poo so I... turned it off and move the arms up.... manually (but gently)
I'm total noob in 3d printing and probably very stupid when I get impatient

I then tried to run the star again, the motor test, the back home but nothing moves . The extruder was functionning when I tried the star again. I have a USB connection on the printer but not sure how this works, I haven't seen a soft on the 101 Official website
I also installed Repetitier but can't figure out how to send something to the 101

>my question is : should I throw the printer out now or is there something that can be done ?

Thanks for your help,

looks like circle is bigger than the print area..?
Why when printing a circle with a diameter of 150 cm, a 10x10 cm square with rounded edges is printed. The diagonal of the square is 13 cm.
Mods and upgrades / RAMPS mount?
Last post by Eddiie -
For those that have moved to a RAMPS controller, what are you using for a mount?  Where are you placing it?
Any ideas or suggestions?  I also have a Rumba controller, maybe it being flatter than the RAMPS/Arduino I can mount on bottom?
Have you looked at the Obsidian kickstarter. The printer looks reasonably good
Looks good. Holidays are coming up though so I don't have the cash on hand to back it at the minute though
It looks like the KS campaign sold all printers for the September and October productions runs, but they do expect to have a November run for Holiday delivery.

Be sure to get on their email list to be notified when the store opens for pre-orders.
101Hero / Re: Problem with extruder heating
Last post by BobC -
DO NOT TRUST the 101Hero temperature indication!  It reads about 15C high in my printer.

Always do a customized temperature calibration tower for every filament spool, and be sure it covers the full range from "over-cooked" to "under-extruded".
I'm now getting good prints pretty much all the time.  I showed my latest 3D Benchy to friends having access to much more expensive FDM printers, and they've been very favorably impressed.

My last remaining noticeable problem is general "fuzziness" on the print and stringing across gaps, which I now suspect may be more of a filament issue (I've tried a wide range of temperatures and retraction distances).  But it has encouraged me to get much better at using my Xacto knife!

I've now done a few prints that required the full bed, and it is here that the tiny errors in the 101Hero Marlin firmware configuration can make themselves known through a slight "bowl" effect.  My best results have been obtained using lots of gluestick with a thin (normal) first print layer: The hot nozzle actually pushes the filament into the glue!

For smaller prints, blue tape is still easiest.

The "bowl" effect is reduced if the printer frame is made stiffer.  My US$5 solution was to cut three (roughly) 10"x7" pieces of acrylic to slide between each pair of pylons.

For most of my prints, going down to 0.10 mm layer thickness to obtain better detail doesn't really help all that much, given the 0.4 mm nozzle.  I'm finding that a 0.18 mm layer thickness provides a great trade-off between speed and detail.

Another observation (on my system) is that printing directly from Cura/Pronterface can fail for large prints.  If Cura says the print time will be over 2 hours, I always use the SD card.